Firstly, you should select the type of shower that you wish to set up. It is essential to determine whether the picked shower is capable of coping with specific systems and can regulate a safe level of water through the boiler. Many shower systems nowadays are designed to be flexible to various water pressures (such as stored hot water and cold mains).
It is likewise important to take into account the water pressure and the preparation of the piping and drain for the shower
Different Types of Shower Units
Push-on Mixer: The hose and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower unit can be linked to the bath tap as per your requirement, and the water temperature level can be changed by means of the taps. Push-on mixers are cheap and very basic to set up. Nevertheless, although the tube connection is easy, it is easily dislodged. Furthermore, it is inconvenient to change the temperature level.
Bath/Shower Mixer: The pipe and spray of this kind of shower are combined with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature level can be changed through the bath taps. It is a very inexpensive choice and no additional plumbing is included. However, the bath/shower mixers likewise struggle with inconvenient temperature control options.
Manual Mixer: The pipe and spray of a manual mixer shower unit are a part of the wall unit and the hot and cold water supplies are connected to a single valve The temperature and pressure of the water are controlled through either one or a range of knobs (in more costly showers). Temperature level control is much easier in manual mixer types, they are more pricey than the formerly pointed out mixers. They likewise need extra pipes of hot and cold supply of water pipelines.
Thermostatic Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of this shower type belong of the wall system and the hot and cold water supplies are connected to a single valve here too. It is complete with an integrated stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature level and to prevent it from ending up being too hot. One of the biggest advantages of a thermostatic mixer shower type includes practical temperature control. It is the most expensive of the various mixer alternatives.
Power Shower: A power shower is a single system containing a powerful electrical pump that can modifying both the water pressure and temperature level. This kind of shower can be fitted if there is supply of water from a cold water tank and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the change of both pressure and temperature level simple. On the other hand, it is unsuitable for water warmed directly by the shower or where the water is provided by a mix boiler under mains pressure.
Electric Shower: An electrical shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats the water electrically. It is important to keep in mind that for this shower type to be set up, the mains pressure requires to be a minimum of 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The unit enables the temperature and pressure to be changed via a knob. Models with temperature stabilisers are much better as they stay unaffected by other taps somewhere else in use within the family. A major downside of electric showers is that the control knob only permits the option of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperature levels at a greater pressure. This is bothersome in the winter season when the spray is typically weak and the mains water is cooler. However, this issue is dealt with in some designs which are readily available with a winter/summer setting.
Depending on the kind of shower you want to set up, the shower head must either be fitted in order to prevent its contact with the water in the bath listed below or the base tray, or it needs to have a check valve.
Before beginning, it is advisable to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to plan the pipe-work included. Furthermore, the drainage system to get rid of the waste water will require to be planned. Both positions of the cable television route and the shower switch will also need to be thought about if an instantaneous or electrical shower system is being set up.
Use the guideline guide supplied with the shower system to fit the shower control.
Prior to fitting the pipelines that will supply the water to the shower system, it is very important to cut off the supply of water. In order to protect the pipes, they must be offered a waterproof covering and likewise fitted with separating valves. The pipes can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the general look.
Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.
Connect the main shower control to the pipes that will be supplying the water (This may need a female screw thread adapter).
Reconnect the water supply and test the pipes for any leaks, as some might require tightening.
If you are setting up an electrical shower, remember to turn off the electricity supply prior to making any electrical connections. Once these connections have actually been made (there ought to be guidance within the user’s manual), the power supply can be switched back on.
Adjusting Water Pressure to Suit Your Shower
The cold water tank can be lifted to a greater height (in some cases as little as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wooden assistance beneath it – perhaps composed of struts and block-boards. If you select this option, the primary and distribution pipelines will also need to be raised to fulfil the new height of the tank.
A booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is chosen, it should be connected into the power supply in order to run.
Piping and Drainage
It is best to utilise 15mm diameter supply pipes, and make the go to the shower as brief and straight as possible so regarding keep maximum pressure and minimise heat loss. Additionally, by reducing using elbows for pipeline corners, you can reduce the resistance in the circulation of the water supply.
The Majority Of Common Mistakes
- Violating or ignoring Local Code Limitations.
- Using Pipes that are too small
- Attaching Copper to Galvanised without using a brass or dielectric fitting in between the two.
- Not using tape or pipe compound at threaded joints.
- Not levelling your fixtures when installing them.
- Not installing an air gap filling for fixtures.
- Cutting supply stub outs too brief to install the shutoff valves onto after the completed wall is in place.
- Not correctly lining up tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will cause a leakage).
- When turning the water back on in your house, always run the outdoors tube vale or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This particles can cause issues in your sink tap and other pipes.
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